March 19, 2026
Equipment & Maintenance
In This Guide
- What Is a DE Filter — and Why Backwashing Isn’t Enough
- Signs Your DE Filter Needs a Deep Clean Right Now
- Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
- Safety First: Critical Rules Before You Open the Tank
- Universal Pre-Clean Steps (All Brands)
- Deep Clean by Brand: Hayward, Pentair, and Jandy
- Chemical Cleaning: Degreasing and Acid Washing
- Reassembly and Recharging with DE Powder
- Reading Your Pressure Gauge: Normal vs. Danger Zones
- Maintenance Schedule and Seasonal Considerations
- Common Mistakes and What They Cost You
- Frequently Asked Questions
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What Is a DE Filter — and Why Backwashing Isn’t Enough
DE (diatomaceous earth) filters are the most powerful residential pool filters available, capable of trapping particles as small as 2 to 5 microns — that’s finer than most bacteria and many algae spores. The magic happens inside: a series of fabric-wrapped grids or tubes coated with a thin layer of diatomaceous earth powder act as a microscopic sieve.
Backwashing reverses the water flow and flushes loose DE powder and debris out through the waste line. It handles the bulk of the dirt load — but it cannot remove everything. Body oils, sunscreen, mineral scale from hard water, and fine organic debris bond to the grid fabric over time. These deposits accumulate in layers and eventually suffocate the filter media, reducing flow and increasing operating pressure even after a fresh backwash.
A deep clean — meaning actual disassembly, physical rinsing, chemical degreasing, and if needed, an acid soak — is the only way to fully restore your filter’s performance. Think of it as the difference between vacuuming a carpet and having it professionally steam cleaned. Both matter. Only one resets the filter to like-new condition.
2–5 microns
The particle size a DE filter captures — finer than sand and most cartridge filters. That performance only holds when the grids are truly clean.
Signs Your DE Filter Needs a Deep Clean Right Now
Don’t wait for something to break before you open the tank. Your filter will give you clear signals that a deep clean is overdue:
- Pressure stays high even after backwashing. If you backwash thoroughly and the gauge climbs back to the same elevated reading within hours, the grids are clogged with oils or scale that water pressure alone can’t shift.
- Filter cycles are getting shorter. If you used to go 3–4 weeks between backwashes and now you’re doing it every few days, the media is becoming permanently restricted.
- Return jets are weak despite a clean pump basket. Reduced flow through a dirty filter starves your returns and makes the pump work harder than it should.
- Cloudy water persists more than 30 seconds after backwashing. DE or debris blowing back into the pool is a sign the grids may be torn or improperly seated — which you’ll only discover by opening the tank.
- It’s been more than 12 months since the last deep clean. For year-round pools, every 6 months is the right target. At minimum, do it every season opening or closing.
Smart Automation Alerts
If you have a Pentair IntelliFlo VF pump, it will display “Alert — Service System Soon” and show the filter status at 100% when your clean filter pressure threshold is reached. Hayward OmniLogic and ProLogic systems use a “Check System” LED. Jandy AquaPure may show a “dE” code — this often requires a reset after cleaning, not a component replacement.
Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
Before you shut the pump off, gather everything you need. Interrupting the process midway to hunt for a wrench creates opportunities for mistakes.
| Item | Purpose | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Wrench set | Loosen clamp band nuts | Typically 1/2″, 9/16″, or 3/4″ depending on brand |
| Rubber mallet | Tap tank halves apart | Never use a metal hammer on filter components |
| Garden hose with adjustable nozzle | Rinse grids and fabric | Medium spray — no pressure washers |
| DE filter cleaner / TSP degreaser | Remove oils and sunscreen | Use before acid; oils lock into fabric if acid is applied first |
| Muriatic acid | Dissolve mineral scale (calcium) | Only if grids feel stiff after degreasing; ratios vary by brand |
| Plastic soaking tub | Chemical soak container | Must be plastic — acid will corrode metal containers |
| Chemical-resistant gloves | Hand protection | Nitrile or neoprene; no latex |
| Safety goggles and dust mask | Eye and lung protection | Required when handling DE powder and acid |
| Fresh pool-grade DE powder | Recharge the filter after reassembly | Pool-grade only — never use industrial or food-grade DE |
| 5-gallon bucket | Mix DE slurry before adding | Makes distribution more even |
| Jack’s 327 lube or silicone lubricant | Lubricate O-rings before reassembly | Silicone or Teflon-based ONLY — never petroleum-based |
ProTuff Pick
Pool Brush Head
While your filter is out of service for deep cleaning, use this time to brush down your pool walls and floor — debris disturbed now will get captured when you restart the freshly cleaned filter. ProTuff’s heavy-duty brush head with magnetic ring-lock ends attaches to any standard pole.
Safety First: Critical Rules Before You Open the Tank
Pool filter accidents are rare — but when they happen, they are severe. A pressurized filter tank acts like a compressed air vessel. The lid can separate with explosive force if the clamp is loosened before pressure is fully released. These rules are non-negotiable.
The Absolute “NEVER” List
- NEVER open the filter clamp or bolts until the pressure gauge reads ZERO and the air relief valve is fully open.
- NEVER turn the multiport valve handle while the pump is running — this tears the internal spider gasket.
- NEVER use petroleum-based lubricants on O-rings. Use only silicone or Teflon-based pool lube.
- NEVER operate any filter above 50 PSI — some brands set their limit at 35 PSI. Shut down immediately if pressure reaches 40 PSI.
- NEVER run a DE filter for more than 2 minutes without a fresh DE precoat. The fabric grids will load directly with dirt and may never fully recover.
- NEVER start the pump with the return line capped or valves closed — “deadheading” can rupture the filter tank.
Chemical Safety
Muriatic acid is caustic and produces fumes. Always work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Always add acid to water — never water to acid. Wear chemical-resistant gloves and safety goggles. Keep a garden hose nearby for immediate skin or eye rinsing.
Universal Pre-Clean Steps (All Brands)
Regardless of your filter brand, complete these steps in order before you touch any hardware. Skipping steps or changing the sequence creates real hazards or makes the job harder.
Backwash First
Run a full backwash cycle to flush out as much loose DE powder and debris as possible. This reduces the weight and mess when you remove the internal assembly, and shortens your rinse time. For Hayward Perflex models, bump the handle 8 times first.
Turn Off the Pump — At the Circuit Breaker
Shut off the pump and all automatic controls (timers, automation systems) at the circuit breaker, not just at the pump switch. This prevents an automated timer from restarting the pump while the tank is open. Confirm the pump is off by checking that the impeller noise has stopped completely.
Release All Air Pressure
Slowly open the air relief valve on top of the filter tank. You’ll hear a hiss as trapped air escapes. Wait until the hissing stops completely and the pressure gauge reads exactly zero (0 PSI). Do not proceed until you confirm this. Zero on the gauge is not “close to zero” — it must read zero.
Isolate the System (If Filter Is Below Water Level)
If your equipment pad is below the pool’s water line, close the suction and return valves to prevent the pool from draining through the open filter. If your filter is above water level, this step is optional but still good practice.
Open the Drain and Let the Tank Empty
Remove or open the drain plug at the bottom of the tank to let residual water drain out. This water will be dirty with DE slurry — direct it toward a drainage area, not the pool. Never discard spent DE in a storm drain; most municipalities prohibit it.
Pro Tip
Take a photo of the grid assembly, manifold orientation, and any labeled positions before you disassemble anything. When you’re reassembling a soaking-wet filter with slippery components, that photo is worth more than any written instruction. Most service callbacks from DIY deep cleans are caused by reassembly errors, not cleaning mistakes.
Deep Clean by Brand: Hayward, Pentair, and Jandy
This is where brand matters most. Hayward’s grid filters disassemble differently than Pentair’s. Hayward’s Perflex bump filters have a completely different internal design from grid-style filters. Pentair’s Quad D.E. uses cartridges, not grids. Follow the section for your specific filter.
Pro-Grid Vertical Series (Models: DE2420, DE3620, DE4820, DE6020, DE7220)
- Remove the 1.5″ drain plug at the bottom of the tank and let it fully drain.
- Loosen the nut on the clamp band (do not remove completely) and tap the band with a rubber mallet to break the seal between the upper and lower tank halves.
- Lift off the upper filter body and set it aside on a clean surface.
- Lift the entire element cluster (grid assembly) straight up and off the standpipe. Place it on a flat surface for inspection and rinsing.
- Rinse each grid with a garden hose at medium pressure, working from the top down between the grid pleats. If the fabric feels stiff or looks gray-white from calcium, proceed to the acid soak in the next section.
- Before reassembly, lubricate the standpipe O-ring with Jack’s 327 or silicone lube.
- Recharge: DE4820 requires 6.0 lbs of DE powder (equivalent to 12 standard coffee cans).
Perflex Extended Cycle / Bump Filters (Models: EC30, EC40, EC50, EC65, EC75)
The Perflex uses “Flex-Tube fingers” instead of grids — these cannot be backwashed like a traditional filter and must be cleaned via the bump handle. The deep clean process is different:
- With the pump OFF, move the bump handle down slowly, then up briskly. Repeat 8 times. This mechanically knocks accumulated DE and debris off the fingers into the bottom of the tank.
- Open the vent valve and drain plug to empty the tank completely.
- Turn the pump on for exactly 5 seconds to flush the bottom of the tank, then shut it off again.
- Remove the “Filter Nest” (the finger assembly) from the tank for inspection and chemical cleaning if needed.
- Recharge: For Hayward Perflex models, consult your label — for example, the EC65A requires 6 lbs of DE. Add via the skimmer after restarting the pump.
SwimClear DEP500 Series (Pleated DE Hybrid — Models: DEP60, DEP80, DEP100)
The SwimClear combines pleated cartridge construction with DE filtration. The cleaning process is closer to a cartridge filter than a traditional DE grid filter:
- Disassemble the tank by removing the clamp band and lifting off the upper body.
- Remove the pleated cartridges from their seats.
- Rinse with a garden hose at a 45-degree angle, working between the pleats from the top down. Do not use a pressure washer — the high pressure separates and cuts the pleat fibers.
- For heavy scale buildup, soak in a cartridge filter cleaner solution, not straight muriatic acid, which can damage the pleat bonding.
FNS Plus Vertical Grid (Models: FNSP 24, 36, 48, 60)
- After draining, unscrew the bolts or wing nuts securing the top manifold. Remove grids one at a time from the grid locator, noting the grid spacing and orientation as you go (a photo helps).
- Rinse each grid thoroughly with a garden hose. Pay attention to the curved sections where DE tends to cake.
- If the cloth feels stiff or resists rinsing, proceed to the acid soak (see next section). Pentair recommends a ratio of 6 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid for a minimum of 4 hours in a plastic tub.
- Reassembly note: Pentair marks one position on the bottom grid locator for the “SMALL GRID” — always start there. Incorrect grid placement causes uneven filtration and stress on the manifold.
- Trigger for backwashing: Pentair targets 10 PSI above your original starting (clean) pressure.
Quad D.E. Cartridge Style (Models: Quad 60, 80, 100)
The Quad D.E. is unique: it uses four large-capacity cartridges instead of grids, combining the clarity of DE filtration with the serviceability of a cartridge filter.
- You can backwash the Quad D.E. like a standard grid filter (by switching the valve to backwash) for routine cleaning.
- For a deep clean, remove the lid and rinse the cartridges in place, or remove them entirely for soaking.
- Acid wash: soak cartridges in a 20:1 water-to-acid solution (20 parts water, 1 part muriatic acid) for 10 minutes per side.
- Rinse very thoroughly before reinstalling — any residual acid will foam when the pump starts.
Clean & Clear / ECDE Series (Models: ECDE60, ECDE90)
These above-ground and smaller residential filters follow the same procedure as cartridge-style DE. ECDE60 uses 1.5 lbs of DE powder; ECDE90 uses 3.0 lbs. Replace elements every 3 years on average, regardless of how well they clean up.
Jandy’s DEV series uses vertical grids and is designed to work with Jandy’s NeverLube backwash valves. The disassembly approach differs slightly from Hayward:
- After draining the tank, locate the tie rod knob in the center of the top manifold. Unscrew it counterclockwise and lift the manifold straight up off the grids.
- Lift each individual grid off the bottom plate, noting position.
- Rinse grids thoroughly. If scale buildup is significant, soak in a 6:1 water-to-muriatic acid solution for 4 hours in a plastic tub.
- Reassembly: Jandy DEV filters use 7 full-size grids and 1 short-span grid. The short-span grid has a specific position on the bottom plate — consult the label on your unit or the owner’s manual.
- Trigger for deep clean: 10–12 PSI above your clean starting pressure.
Jandy Warranty Note
Jandy warranties are frequently voided if equipment was purchased online and not installed by a licensed professional. If your filter is still under warranty and you’re unsure of your installation documentation, check with your installer before performing a DIY deep clean.
Chemical Cleaning: Degreasing and Acid Washing
Physical rinsing handles loose debris. Chemical treatment handles the two persistent fouling agents: oils (from sunscreen, body lotions, and sebum) and mineral scale (from calcium and magnesium in hard water). They require different treatments — and the order matters critically.
Always Degrease Before Acid Washing
This is the single most common mistake in DE filter cleaning. If you apply muriatic acid while oils and sunscreen are still on the grid fabric, the acid chemically bonds those oils into the fibers permanently. The grids become irreversibly clogged, and no amount of further treatment will restore them. Degrease first. Acid wash second. No exceptions.
Step 1: Degrease
Apply a DE filter cleaner (available at pool supply stores) or a solution of Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) directly to wet grid fabric. Let the degreaser soak for 10–20 minutes according to label directions. Then rinse thoroughly with the garden hose until no suds remain. If the grids now flex easily and the fabric looks open and white, you may not need an acid wash at all.
Step 2: Acid Wash (Only If Calcium Scale Is Present)
Signs you need an acid wash: grids feel stiff or rock-hard, white chalky deposits visible on the fabric, or grids were still restricting flow after degreasing.
| Brand / Filter Type | Acid Ratio (Water:Acid) | Soak Duration |
|---|---|---|
| Hayward Pro-Grid (liming up) | 5:1 (water:acid) | Several hours (until stiffness breaks) |
| Hayward Perflex (finger assembly) | 1:1 (water:acid) | Until scale dissolves |
| Pentair FNS Plus | 6:1 (water:acid) | Minimum 4 hours |
| Pentair Quad D.E. cartridges | 20:1 (water:acid) | 10 minutes per side |
| Jandy DEV Series | 6:1 (water:acid) | 4 hours |
Always mix acid in a plastic tub outdoors. Add the muriatic acid slowly to the water — never reverse this. Submerge the grids fully. After soaking, remove the grids and rinse exhaustively with a garden hose until you can no longer smell acid and the rinse water runs clear. Grids that still feel hard after the correct soak time may need to be replaced.
Reassembly and Recharging with DE Powder
Getting the reassembly right is just as important as the cleaning itself. Improperly seated grids, cross-threaded drain plugs, or an incorrectly charged DE load will all send you back to square one.
Inspect and Lubricate All O-Rings
Before reassembly, inspect every O-ring for cracks, flat spots, or brittleness. Replace any that look questionable — O-rings are inexpensive. Lightly coat all O-rings with silicone lubricant (Jack’s 327 or equivalent). Never use Vaseline or any petroleum-based product, which degrades rubber O-rings over time.
Reinstall Grids in the Correct Positions
Follow the brand-specific reassembly instructions above. For Pentair FNS Plus, start with the small grid in the marked position. For Jandy DEV, position the short-span grid where indicated. Use your pre-disassembly photo if anything looks ambiguous. Tighten the clamp band firmly but do not over-torque — filter tank halves are plastic and can crack.
Close the Drain, Open the Air Relief, and Restart the Pump
Hand-tighten the drain plug — do not overtighten, as this can crack the underdrain. Open the air relief valve on top to allow air to purge as water fills the tank. Restore all valves to their normal operating positions. Set the multiport valve to “Filter” position before starting the pump. Turn the circuit breaker back on. Stand clear of the tank when the pump starts.
Add the DE Powder Immediately
With the pump running and water flowing, mix your measured DE powder with water in a 5-gallon bucket to create a thin, creamy slurry (consistency of whole milk). Walk to the nearest skimmer and slowly pour the slurry in while the pump runs. The pump will draw the DE through the system and coat the grid fabric evenly. Never add dry DE powder directly — it clumps and distributes unevenly. Run the pump for at least 30–60 minutes after adding DE to ensure a complete, even precoat has formed on all grids.
How Much DE Powder Do You Need?
The general rule: 1 pound of DE for every 5–10 square feet of filter area. Most manufacturers specify the exact amount in the owner’s manual and on a label attached to the filter. A standard one-pound coffee can (heaping full of fluffy DE) is the industry-standard measuring tool for 1 lb of DE. Hayward DE4820 = 6 lbs (12 cans). Pentair ECDE60 = 1.5 lbs (3 cans). Pentair ECDE90 = 3 lbs (6 cans). Always check the label on your specific filter — different brands and models vary significantly.
ProTuff Pick
Telescopic Pool Pole
A reliable pool pole makes post-clean pool work — skimming, brushing, vacuuming — faster and easier. ProTuff’s 16 ft telescopic pole features the Lock-Right mechanism for zero slip and is backed by the 490 Promise lifetime warranty for residential users.
Reading Your Pressure Gauge: Normal vs. Danger Zones
Your pressure gauge is the single most important diagnostic tool on your filter. The problem is that “normal” is not a fixed number — it’s relative to your system’s clean starting pressure, which varies by pump size, pipe diameter, and filter model.
Step one: establish your baseline. Record the pressure gauge reading immediately after a deep clean and fresh DE charge, with the pump running. This is your clean starting pressure. Write it on a piece of tape and stick it to the filter.
| Pressure Reading | What It Means | Action Required |
|---|---|---|
| Below 5–8 PSI | Suction problem — clogged pump basket, air leak, or blocked skimmer | Check pump basket and suction lines before assuming filter issue |
| Clean baseline (typically 8–25 PSI) | Normal operation | Monitor — record this number after each deep clean |
| 8–10 PSI above baseline (or +25%) | Filter is loaded — needs backwash | Backwash and recharge immediately |
| Returns to high pressure quickly after backwash | Grids are fouled — backwash cannot resolve it | Deep clean required |
| 40 PSI or higher | Abnormal / dangerous pressure buildup | Shut pump off immediately — do not operate |
| Above 50 PSI | Tank rupture / lid separation risk | Emergency shutdown — do not approach tank until pressure is bled |
Pro Tip
If your pressure gauge reads zero while the pump is running (not just off), the gauge itself may be clogged or failed. A faulty gauge is a serious safety risk because it hides real pressure buildup. Replace a sticky or non-responsive gauge before running the system again.
Maintenance Schedule and Seasonal Considerations
A pressure-based maintenance approach beats calendar-based schedules, but having a seasonal framework keeps you from falling behind.
✅ DE Filter Maintenance Schedule
Backwash: Whenever pressure reads 8–10 PSI above your clean baseline — or after any major debris event (algae bloom, heavy rain, storm)
Check pressure gauge reading: Weekly — note trending increases even if not yet at the 8–10 PSI threshold
Full deep clean: Every 6 months for year-round pools; at least once annually for seasonal pools (ideally at opening or closing)
Summer peak season: Monitor PSI more frequently — high bather load (sunscreen, body oils) increases clogging rate
After heavy rain or storms: Backwash or deep clean immediately — storms introduce heavy organic and particulate loads that overwhelm the filter quickly
Winterization: In freezing climates, fully drain the filter tank and remove all drain plugs. Ice expansion inside a closed tank will crack it — a $200–400 replacement
Grid element replacement: Inspect fabric for tears, holes, or permanent rigidity at each deep clean — well-maintained grids typically last 7–10 years, though undersized or neglected filters may need earlier replacement
Pool size and filter sizing matter. A filter that’s significantly oversized for the pool volume (common in newer energy-efficient builds) may go months between cleanings. An undersized filter — one with insufficient square footage for the pool — can require attention every few weeks. Neither situation changes the cleaning procedure, but it should calibrate your frequency expectations.
Common Mistakes and What They Cost You
Most DE filter damage is self-inflicted. Here’s exactly what goes wrong, what it costs, and how to avoid it.
| Mistake | What Happens | Cost to Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Opening tank under pressure | Violent lid separation — lid can launch 50 feet. Potentially fatal. | Incalculable |
| Acid washing before degreasing | Oils are permanently “set” into grid fabric — grids permanently clogged and must be replaced | $100–$150 (full grid set replacement) |
| Running pump without DE precoat | Dirt clogs grid fabric directly; pump can crush grids or manifold under high pressure | $150–$250 (grids + manifold) |
| Overtightening the drain plug | Cracks the underdrain assembly or internal tee fitting | $50–$100 (parts) |
| Wrong DE amount | Too much = “bridging” between grids. Too little = dirt bypasses media and clogs fabric from the inside. | $35 (bag of DE) + labor; worst case grid replacement |
| Pressure washing cartridges or grids | High-pressure water cuts pleat fibers — filter media is destroyed | $30–$150 per cartridge/element |
| Delaying deep clean for 12+ months | Motor burnout from overwork; chronic water quality issues; hundreds of dollars in excess chemical spending | $300–$800+ (motor replacement + chemical overrun) |
ProTuff Pick
Pool Net
Skim leaves, debris, and surface contaminants before they settle and load your filter. ProTuff’s leaf rake uses 690-micron mesh and a modular EZ-clip design for universal pole compatibility. Removing surface debris is the first line of defense for your filter’s health.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I deep clean my DE pool filter?
Deep clean your DE filter at least once a year — ideally at pool opening or closing. For year-round pools or high-use situations (large bather loads, frequent algae events), twice per year is the right target. Between deep cleans, backwash whenever the pressure gauge reads 8–10 PSI above your clean starting pressure.
How much DE powder do I need to recharge my filter?
The general rule is 1 pound of DE for every 5–10 square feet of filter area. Your specific requirement is listed in your owner’s manual and typically on a label attached to the filter. As examples: the Hayward DE4820 uses 6 lbs; the Pentair ECDE60 uses 1.5 lbs and the ECDE90 uses 3.0 lbs. A standard one-pound coffee can filled level (not packed) equals approximately 1/2 lb of fluffy DE powder — so 6 lbs requires 12 cans.
What happens if I run my DE filter without adding DE powder after cleaning?
Running a DE filter for more than 2–3 minutes without a DE precoat causes dirt and debris to load directly onto the bare grid fabric. Without the sacrificial DE layer acting as the actual filter medium, particles embed in the cloth and may not be removable by any subsequent cleaning. In severe cases, the pump pressure builds against a clogged filter and can crush the grids or crack the manifold, resulting in $150–$250 in repairs.
Is it safe to do a DE filter deep clean myself, or should I hire a professional?
A DE filter deep clean is a reasonable DIY project for most pool owners who follow the safety rules carefully — especially the rule about confirming zero PSI before opening the tank. The main risks are pressure-related and chemical-related. If you are comfortable working with muriatic acid and comfortable around pressurized plumbing systems, the job is manageable. If your filter is still under Jandy warranty and was professionally installed, check your warranty documentation before proceeding on your own.
Why is my pressure still high after I backwashed and added fresh DE?
If pressure returns to a high reading shortly after backwashing and recharging, the grids have a layer of oils, calcium scale, or deeply embedded debris that the backwash cycle cannot remove. This is the clearest sign that a full deep clean — disassembly, degreasing, and acid soak — is needed. Short filter cycles (pressure rising too quickly) are also a sign that the grids may be partially clogged and the effective filtration area has been reduced.
Do I need to acid wash my DE filter grids every time I deep clean?
No — acid washing is only necessary when mineral scale (calcium) is present. After degreasing and rinsing, feel the grid fabric. If it’s flexible and the weave looks open and clean, a chemical rinse was sufficient. If the fabric still feels stiff, chalky, or brittle after degreasing, that’s calcium scale and an acid soak is required. In areas with very hard water, you may need to acid wash every clean. In areas with soft water, you may rarely need it at all.
What is the correct pressure gauge reading after a fresh DE filter deep clean?
There is no universal “correct” PSI — your clean starting pressure depends on your specific pump, plumbing, and filter model. Most residential systems run between 8 and 25 PSI when freshly cleaned. Record your gauge reading immediately after the clean and recharge, with the pump running at its normal operating speed. Write that number on a label stuck to the filter tank. That number is your personal baseline, and the 8–10 PSI rise above it is your backwash trigger.
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Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. Pool equipment installation and maintenance involve electrical, plumbing, and chemical hazards that can cause serious injury or property damage. Always consult a licensed, qualified professional before performing any work on your pool equipment. ProTuff Products assumes no liability for actions taken based on the information provided in this article. Product specifications, prices, and availability are subject to change and should be verified with the manufacturer.
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