Your variable speed pump just flashed an error code, and now it’s sitting dead in the equipment pad. Whether your display shows “DC Voltage Too High,” “Drive Is Overheated,” or “Motor Phase Lost,” these are the three fault codes that pool owners dread most — because they hit hard, they’re often misdiagnosed, and fixing the wrong thing wastes hundreds of dollars. This guide breaks down every VS pump fault code by brand (Hayward, Pentair, and Jandy), explains exactly what’s causing it, and gives you a step-by-step path to diagnosis so you know whether you’re looking at a $15 fix or a pump replacement.
- What Is a VS Pump Fault Code?
- DC Voltage Fault Codes: High and Low
- IPM / Drive Overheat Fault Codes
- Phase Loss and Phase Imbalance Errors
- The 5-Minute Power Cycle: Your First Step
- Installation Factors That Cause Fault Codes
- VS Pump Models Compared by Brand
- Maintenance Schedule to Prevent Fault Codes
- Repair vs. Replace: The Cost Analysis
- Frequently Asked Questions
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What Is a VS Pump Fault Code?
Variable speed (VS) pumps are not built like the old single-speed motors your parents had. Under that distinctive “hump” on top of the motor housing sits a Variable Frequency Drive (VFD) — a sophisticated piece of power electronics that converts your home’s AC power into DC, then reconverts it into adjustable 3-phase AC to spin the motor at precisely the speed you’ve programmed.
That VFD is what makes your pump whisper-quiet at 1,500 RPM during overnight filtration and ramp up to 3,450 RPM when the kids jump in the pool. It also means you now have a computer in your equipment pad — and computers display error codes when something is wrong.
Unlike a mechanical failure on a single-speed pump (you hear it grinding, you call a tech), VS pump fault codes are the drive’s way of shutting itself down before damage occurs. This is actually good news: a code on the display means the electronics detected the problem before it burned out the internals. Your job is to read the code, find the root cause, and fix the right thing — not just reset the pump and hope for the best.
A well-maintained VS pump should last 8–10 years. The wet end (housing, impeller, basket) can last decades — it’s the motor drive electronics that fail first, and fault codes are your early warning system.
The three fault codes that account for the overwhelming majority of VS pump service calls are: DC Voltage (High or Low), IPM / Drive Overheat, and Phase Loss / Phase Imbalance. They look different on every brand’s display, which is why so many homeowners get confused. Let’s break down each one.
DC Voltage Fault Codes: High and Low
The VFD in your pump converts incoming 230V AC (or 115V AC) into a DC bus voltage that powers the drive’s output stage. Under normal operation, the DC bus on a 230V pump runs at approximately 325 VDC. When that voltage climbs above 400 VDC or drops below 230 VDC, the drive triggers a DC Voltage fault and shuts down to protect the electronics.
The critical thing to understand here is that the fault is almost never internal to the pump. It is almost always caused by the incoming AC power at the terminal block. Your first diagnostic move is to grab a multimeter and check line voltage before you do anything else.
Important: Check Voltage Before Resetting
Incoming AC voltage must stay within ±10% of the pump’s nameplate rating. For a 230V pump, that means the acceptable range is 207V–253V. Repeatedly resetting the pump without fixing an out-of-range voltage will eventually destroy the drive’s capacitors.
The two most common causes are undersized wiring that creates a voltage drop under load, and utility power issues (brownouts, overvoltage from a neighboring high-load disconnect). Check both the voltage at the breaker panel and at the pump terminal block with the pump running — they should be within a few volts of each other. A large gap points directly to undersized or damaged wire.
Hayward: “DC Voltage Too High / Too Low”
Hayward TriStar VS, Super Pump VS, and MaxFlo VS pumps display this error in plain English on the LED or LCD keypad. The display literally reads “DC Voltage Too High” or “DC Voltage Too Low.”
Diagnosis: Measure incoming voltage at the terminal block (L1 to L2) with a multimeter while the pump attempts to start. For 230V models, the reading should be 207V–253V. For 115V configurations, it should be 103V–127V.
Fix: If voltage is low, check wire gauge. Hayward specifies minimum wire sizes based on amperage draw — undersized wiring for runs over 50 feet is the #1 cause. If voltage is high (above 253V), contact your utility — this is a grid issue, not a wiring issue.
Pentair: Error Codes 09 and 0A
Pentair IntelliFlo3, WhisperFlo VST, and SuperFlo VST pumps display numeric error codes on the digital keypad. Code 09 = DC Bus Over Voltage. Code 0A = DC Bus Under Voltage.
Diagnosis: Pentair pumps auto-detect 115V or 230V supply. If the pump has been connected to a 115V circuit but is wired for 230V operation internally, the drive will immediately trigger a DC Bus fault. Verify the terminal strip jumper setting matches your supply voltage before measuring.
Fix: Pentair recommends a dedicated 2-pole 20A GFCI breaker. Shared circuits or long wire runs from a subpanel often cause 0A (under voltage) codes. Run the pump on a dedicated circuit and recheck.
Jandy: Error Codes E22 and E23
Jandy ePump and VS FloPro models display alphanumeric error codes. E22 = DC Bus Over Voltage. E23 = DC Bus Under Voltage. These codes appear on the pump’s built-in keypad and (if connected) in the iAquaLink app.
Diagnosis: Jandy requires minimum #12 AWG wire for runs up to 100 feet, and #10 AWG for runs beyond that. Runs with inadequate wire gauge are the single most common cause of E23 (under voltage) errors on Jandy pumps installed far from the main panel.
Fix: Upgrade wire gauge or shorten run length. Also verify the AquaLink RS system board is Revision O or later — older firmware can send incorrect voltage commands that confuse the drive.
Measure voltage at the pump terminal block while the pump is trying to start, not while it’s off. Line voltage under load is what matters — many homes that show 240V at the panel will drop to 205V at a distant equipment pad when the pump tries to pull 10–15 amps. That’s your fault code trigger.
IPM / Drive Overheat Fault Codes
The IPM (Intelligent Power Module) is the high-power output stage of the VFD — the component that actually switches current to drive the motor phases. It runs hot by design, and it’s mounted to a heatsink with a small cooling fan that pulls air through the motor housing.
When the IPM temperature sensor reads above 122°F to 130°F (depending on the brand), the drive shuts down to prevent permanent damage to the power transistors. Unlike DC Voltage faults, IPM Overheat codes are often seasonal — you’ll see them in July in Arizona but never in October in Minnesota.
The good news: most IPM Overheat faults will auto-reset after 6–10 minutes once the drive cools down. If your pump trips, sits for a while, and then runs fine until the hottest part of the afternoon, IPM Overheat is almost certainly your culprit — even if you never saw a code on the display.
Hayward: “Drive Is Overheated”
Hayward VS pumps display “Drive Is Overheated” on the keypad. On TriStar VS 900/950 models, this triggers the internal fan to run at full speed — if you hear an unusually loud fan noise before the pump shuts down, that’s the drive trying to cool itself.
Check first: Look at the rear of the motor housing where the fan shroud sits. Cottonwood debris, leaf litter, and spider webs are the top culprits. Even partial blockage of the cooling fins will spike drive temperatures within minutes.
Fix: Clear all debris from motor vents. Provide at least 12″ of rear clearance behind the motor fan for fresh air intake. In Arizona and other high-heat climates, Hayward specifically recommends a vented motor cover or shade structure over the equipment pad.
Pentair: Error Code 04 — “Drive Temperature”
Pentair IntelliFlo and WhisperFlo VST pumps log error code 04 for drive temperature faults. The IntelliFlo3 VSF also records this event in its internal fault history, which you can review via the Pentair Home app — helpful if the fault is intermittent and you’re not there when it trips.
Check first: Pentair specifies a minimum 3″ rear clearance behind the motor fan. Equipment pads that are enclosed by walls on three sides are notorious for trapping heat. If the ambient air around the pump exceeds 122°F on a hot day, the drive will trip even with a clean motor.
Fix: Improve ventilation around the equipment pad. Install a shade cover — Pentair sells a direct-fit motor cover for hot climates. Do not enclose the motor in an airtight box; it must breathe.
Jandy: Error Code E2E
Jandy ePump and VS FloPro models use error code E2E for drive overheat. This code is visible on the keypad and transmitted to the iAquaLink system. Because Jandy pumps often sit in larger enclosed equipment cabinets with other pool equipment, heat buildup is a more frequent problem compared to open-pad installations.
Check first: The Jandy ePump’s distinctive boxy design means its cooling fins are located on the sides, not just the rear. Ensure lateral clearance on both sides, not just rear clearance.
Fix: Increase enclosure ventilation by cutting louver vents into the cabinet sides. If the pump is in direct sun on a southwest-facing exposure, shade is mandatory in summer. Clean the drive heatsink fins annually with compressed air.
Never Block the Motor Vents
Do not wrap your VS pump in a weatherproof tarp or enclose it in an airtight box to “protect” it from rain or sun. Blocking airflow forces the IPM to run at elevated temperatures, and repeated heat cycling permanently degrades the drive’s power transistors over time — even when you don’t see an obvious fault code. Use a vented cover designed for pool equipment, not a solid enclosure.
Phase Loss and Phase Imbalance Errors
This is the fault code that most homeowners least understand — and the one most likely to mean your pump needs to be replaced. To understand why, you need to understand how a VS pump motor actually works.
The VFD doesn’t just pass your wall power to the motor. It generates its own 3-phase output — three separate AC voltage waveforms, each offset by 120°, to create a rotating magnetic field inside the permanent magnet motor. Each of those three paths is a “phase.” If any one of those three internal phases goes open (loses continuity), the motor loses its ability to generate a rotating field, and it stops — or tries to spin and vibrates badly.
Phase Loss is almost always an internal failure. The three causes are: (1) water ingress into the motor windings that shorts a winding, (2) a failed drive output transistor for one phase, or (3) a failed motor winding. In all three cases, the fault is inside the pump — not in your wiring or power supply. A power cycle will not fix it.
Hayward: “Motor Phase Lost”
Hayward VS pumps display “Motor Phase Lost” and will not restart. Hayward’s own technical documentation states that this error almost always requires replacement of the motor/drive assembly. In the TriStar VS 900/950, the motor and drive are sold as a separate “motor kit” — you can replace just the motor and drive without buying a new wet end.
Diagnosis step: Perform one 5-minute power cycle (see next section). If the error comes back immediately on restart, the motor is failed. If the pump runs for a few minutes before erroring, you may have an intermittent winding fault — but the outcome is the same: replacement is coming.
Pentair: Codes 16, 17, and 1b
Pentair uses three codes for phase-related faults: Code 16 = Phase Current Imbalance, Code 17 = Phase Loss, Code 1b = Motor Phase Open. Code 16 is the early warning — current is still flowing to all three phases but not equally, often indicating a winding beginning to fail. Codes 17 and 1b mean a phase is fully open.
Diagnosis step: If you see Code 16, schedule service soon — the motor is degrading. Codes 17 and 1b require immediate attention. Pentair’s factory service team recommends replacement of the motor/drive assembly rather than attempting individual component repair, as drive board replacement alone often costs $600+ with no warranty.
Jandy: Error Code E2F
Jandy ePump and VS FloPro pumps display E2F for motor phase fault. This code is also visible in the iAquaLink app under the pump’s fault history. Jandy pumps installed in high-humidity climates (Florida, Hawaii, coastal areas) have a higher incidence of E2F codes caused by water vapor condensation on the motor windings over time.
Fix: Power cycle the pump fully (5 minutes minimum, breaker off). If E2F returns within the first few minutes of operation, the motor/drive assembly requires replacement. Unlike some DC Voltage faults, there is no field repair for an open motor phase.
The 5-Minute Power Cycle: Your First Diagnostic Step
Every VS pump manufacturer recommends the same first step when any fault code appears: a complete power cycle with a minimum off-time of 5 minutes. This is not just “turn it off and on again” — there’s a specific reason for the 5-minute wait.
When you cut power to a VS pump, the VFD’s DC bus capacitors retain a charge for up to 20 seconds. This is why Hayward manuals specifically warn about a 20-second capacitor save window — the electronics aren’t actually off yet, even though the breaker is open. The 5-minute wait ensures the capacitors fully discharge, the drive’s microcontroller resets completely, and all fault registers clear before the next startup attempt.
How to Perform a Full VS Pump Power Cycle
Turn off the automation system first (OmniLogic, IntelliCenter, iAquaLink, or timer). If the controller is trying to run the pump while you’re cycling power, it will attempt to restart immediately.
Turn off the breaker at the subpanel or disconnect box next to the equipment pad. Do not simply press “Stop” on the pump keypad — you need to fully cut line power.
Wait a minimum of 5 minutes. This allows the DC bus capacitors to discharge fully and the drive’s microcontroller to reset. Shorter wait times risk an incomplete reset.
Restore power and observe. Watch the display during the startup sequence. Write down the exact error code if it returns. The code text tells you everything about what happened and which subsystem is involved.
Interpret the result. If the pump runs without error: the fault was transient (a power glitch, a brief overheat). Monitor for recurrence. If the fault returns immediately: the root cause is still present and requires physical investigation.
Installation Factors That Cause Fault Codes
A significant percentage of VS pump fault codes — especially DC Voltage and IPM Overheat — are not pump failures at all. They’re the result of installation mistakes made on day one that slowly cause problems as the pump ages. Here are the most common ones, along with what they produce over time.
Oversizing the pump for the plumbing: Installing a 3.0 HP VS pump on a system with 1.5″ plumbing is one of the most common and damaging installation mistakes in pool service. The pump creates more suction than the pipes can handle, causing cavitation — a rapid formation and collapse of vapor bubbles that sounds like gravel in the pump and creates extreme stress on the impeller and volute. Over time, cavitation also causes fluctuating flow rates that the drive interprets as motor phase problems.
Skipping the straight pipe requirement: Every major manufacturer specifies a minimum length of straight pipe (typically 10″ for 2″ pipe) before the suction inlet. Installing a 90° elbow directly into the suction port creates turbulent, aerated water entering the pump, making it hard to prime and generating low-flow conditions that stress the drive.
Using pipe dope on plastic fittings: Solvent-based pipe dope causes stress cracking in PVC and the pump’s plastic housing over time. Always use Teflon tape (PTFE) on threaded plastic connections, never pipe dope.
Improper mounting: A pump that isn’t bolted to a level concrete slab vibrates excessively, loosening electrical connections inside the drive and accelerating bearing wear in the motor. All three manufacturers specify a level, rigid mounting surface with the pump foot bolted down.
| Brand | Breaker Req. | Min. Straight Pipe | Rear Clearance | Wire (>50ft) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hayward | 15A (230V), 20A (115V) | 5× pipe diameter (10″ for 2″ pipe) | 12″ minimum | #10 AWG recommended |
| Pentair | 20A GFCI (2-pole) | 10″ for 2″ pipe | 3″–12″ minimum | #10 AWG |
| Jandy | Per local code | Per manufacturer spec | Side + rear clearance | #10 AWG (>100ft) |
VS Pump Models Compared by Brand
If you’re diagnosing fault codes on a pump you didn’t install yourself, knowing the specific model helps you look up the exact fault code table in the owner’s manual. Here’s a complete breakdown of current VS pump models by brand, with the specifications you need.
Hayward VS Pumps
Hayward offers the broadest VS pump range and is known for its “service-ease” 4-bolt access to internal components, making motor replacements faster than competitors.
| Model (Model #) | THP | Voltage | WEF | Est. Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TriStar® VS 900 (SP32900VSP) | 1.85 | 230/115V | 12.9 ★ | ~$1,399 |
| TriStar® VS 950 (SP32950VSP) | 2.70 | 230/115V | 10.1 | ~$1,469 |
| Super Pump® VS 700 (SP2670010VSP) | 1.65 | 230V | 9.3 | ~$1,249 |
| MaxFlo® VS 500 (SP23500VSP) | 1.65 | 230V | 10.7 | ~$1,449 |
Pentair VS Pumps
Pentair pioneered VS technology in the U.S. market. Their key differentiator is “sensorless flow control” — the drive adjusts RPM automatically to maintain a constant flow rate even as the filter loads up between cleaning cycles.
| Model | THP | Voltage | WEF | Est. Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| IntelliFlo3™ VSF (1.5 THP) | 1.5 | 115/208–230V | 9.4 | ~$1,399 |
| IntelliFlo3™ VSF (3.0 THP) | 3.0 | 115/208–230V | 7.1 | ~$1,699 |
| WhisperFlo® VST | 2.6 | 115/208–230V | 8.4 | ~$1,499 |
| IntelliFlo® VS+SVRS | 3.95 | 230V | 6.9 | ~$1,599 |
Jandy / Zodiac VS Pumps
Jandy pumps lead with AquaLink ecosystem integration and their innovative adjustable base that allows drop-in replacement of Hayward Super Pump and Pentair SuperFlo units without replumbing.
| Model (Model #) | THP | Voltage | WEF | Est. Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ePump™ 3.8 HP (VSSHP3802A) | 3.8 | 230V | 6.5 | ~$1,799 |
| VS FloPro™ 1.85 HP | 1.85 | 115/230V | 8.5 | ~$1,599 |
| VS FloPro™ 2.7 HP | 2.7 | 115/230V | 7.3 | ~$1,699 |
★ WEF 12.9 (TriStar VS 900 at 115V operation; WEF 8.3 at 230V) — the industry’s highest rated in-ground pool pump WEF per DOE metrics as of October 2021. WEF = Water Energy Factor; higher is more efficient.
Maintenance Schedule to Prevent Fault Codes
Most VS pump fault codes are preventable. The pump is telling you something went wrong — but in most cases, a simple routine maintenance habit would have prevented the condition from occurring in the first place. A VS pump that gets basic care will reliably reach its 10-year service life.
Note that VS pumps are designed to run 10–14 hours per day at low speeds, rather than 6–8 hours at high speed. This is more efficient electrically and provides better filtration — but it also means the cooling fan runs longer. A debris-clogged motor that might survive a 6-hour single-speed run can trip on IPM Overheat during a 12-hour VS run on a hot day.
VS Pump Maintenance Checklist
Empty the pump basket and skimmer baskets — debris restriction reduces flow, raising pump RPM and drive temperature
Listen for grinding, screeching, or rattling — early bearing failure signs before phase loss occurs
Check motor vents for cottonwood, leaves, or spider webs — clear with a soft brush if present
Clean and lubricate the pump lid O-ring with silicone or Teflon-based lubricant only — petroleum products (Vaseline) destroy rubber seals
Verify the pump primes normally — slow priming or air in the pump strainer signals a developing suction-side leak that stresses the drive
Inspect the shaft seal — a weeping seal eventually allows water into the motor, causing Phase Loss (E2F/Motor Phase Lost)
Blow out the drive heatsink fins with compressed air — clogged fins are the #1 cause of seasonal IPM Overheat codes
Verify voltage at the terminal block under load — a reading that’s drifted low compared to last year indicates a connection or wire issue developing
Repair vs. Replace: The Cost Analysis
Once you’ve diagnosed a fault code as an internal drive or motor failure, you’re faced with the most consequential decision in VS pump ownership: repair or replace? The answer depends on the pump’s age, what specifically failed, and the cost of the repair relative to a new pump.
Minor mechanical repairs (bearings, shaft seal) cost $100–$150 at a motor shop and make sense at any age. These are wear items, not electronic failures, and a motor rebuilt with new bearings and a seal can run reliably for another 5+ years.
Drive replacement is where the math gets ugly. A replacement VFD “hump” for a major-brand VS pump typically costs $600 or more — and that’s just the part, before labor. Pentair and Hayward have both noted in service documentation that replacement drives often approach the cost of an entire new pump. That brings us to their shared recommendation: if the drive fails on a motor that is already 5 years old or more, replace the entire pump. You get a fresh motor, a fresh drive, and a new 3-year manufacturer warranty — all for roughly the same money as a drive repair with no warranty.
| Pump Type | Avg. Annual Energy Cost | 5-Year Total Cost (Energy + Pump) |
|---|---|---|
| Single Speed (1.5 HP) | $450–$900 | ~$3,000–$4,500 |
| Variable Speed (1.5 HP) | $100–$200 | ~$2,000–$2,500 |
Top-efficiency models like the Hayward TriStar VS 900 (WEF 12.9) and Pentair IntelliFlo3 VSF can reduce pool pump electricity costs by up to 90% compared to a single-speed motor. At average U.S. electricity rates, that represents $600–$800 per year in savings — meaning a replacement VS pump can pay for itself in energy savings alone within 1–2 seasons.
Additionally, many utility companies offer $100–$200 rebates for upgrading to an Energy Star certified VS pump — check your utility provider’s website or ask your pool professional before purchasing.
One of the most common mistakes is buying the smallest (cheapest) VS pump to save money. In practice, you’re better off buying a 3.0 HP model and running it at 1,200–1,500 RPM than buying a 1.5 HP model running at 2,800 RPM. The larger motor at low RPM is quieter, generates less heat, and places far less stress on the drive electronics — which is exactly what prevents the fault codes we’ve been discussing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does “DC Voltage Too High/Low” mean on a variable speed pump?
This fault code means the incoming AC power is outside the pump’s safe operating range — either above 253V or below 207V for a 230V-rated pump. The VFD converts incoming AC into a DC bus voltage, and if the AC line is out of spec, the DC bus voltage goes outside safe limits and triggers the fault. Most commonly caused by undersized wiring on long runs or utility power quality issues. Test voltage at the terminal block under load before any other troubleshooting.
What causes the IPM Overheat fault code on a variable speed pool pump?
The IPM (Intelligent Power Module) is the high-power switching stage of the motor drive. It triggers a shutdown when its temperature sensor exceeds 122°F–130°F, depending on the brand. The most common causes are debris clogging the motor cooling vents or fan shroud, insufficient air clearance behind the motor, and direct summer sun exposure. Most units auto-reset after 6–10 minutes of cooling. If the fault appears daily during hot weather and clears overnight, a shade cover or additional ventilation will resolve it permanently.
How do I fix a phase loss error on my variable speed pool pump?
Perform a complete 5-minute power cycle first — turn off the breaker, wait 5 full minutes, then restore power and observe. If the Phase Loss error (Hayward: “Motor Phase Lost,” Pentair: Code 17, Jandy: E2F) returns immediately or within the first few minutes of operation, the motor or drive has an internal failure — one of the three internal motor phases is open. This is almost never repairable in the field and typically requires replacement of the motor/drive assembly. Unlike DC Voltage faults, there is no wiring fix for a genuine phase loss condition.
How long do variable speed pool pumps typically last?
A well-maintained VS pump should last 8–10 years. The plastic wet end (housing, impeller, strainer basket) can last decades with basic maintenance like gasket and basket replacements. The motor drive electronics are the primary failure point — the permanent magnet motor windings and VFD are the components that eventually fail. Regular maintenance including annual shaft seal inspection, monthly O-ring lubrication, and keeping the cooling vents clear significantly extends the drive’s service life.
Should I repair or replace my VS pump when the VFD drive fails?
If the drive fails on a pump that is 5 years old or older, replace the entire pump. Replacement VFD drives cost $600 or more — close to the cost of a complete new pump — and come with no warranty once installed in an aging motor. A new pump gives you a fresh motor, a new drive with full factory warranty, and current energy efficiency ratings. Minor mechanical repairs like bearings or shaft seals ($100–$150) are always worth doing at any age, since those don’t involve the electronics.
How much electricity does a variable speed pump save compared to a single-speed pump?
A variable speed pump typically costs $100–$200 per year to run, compared to $450–$900 for a single-speed pump — a savings of $300–$700 annually. Over 5 years, that’s $1,500–$3,500 in electricity savings. Top-efficiency models like the Hayward TriStar VS 900 (WEF 12.9) can reduce pump energy costs by up to 90%. Many utility companies also offer $100–$200 rebates for Energy Star certified VS pump upgrades, which shortens the payback period further.
Does installing a variable speed pool pump require a licensed electrician?
Yes — virtually all VS pump manufacturers (Hayward, Pentair, Jandy) require professional installation by a licensed electrician or pool contractor to validate the full warranty. For Hayward’s Expert Line products like the TriStar VS, the pump must be sold and installed by a Totally Hayward Partner to qualify for the 3-year parts and labor warranty. DIY installations may result in a restricted parts-only warranty of 60 days to 1 year. Beyond warranty considerations, high-voltage wiring errors are a significant safety risk — incorrect connections can cause fire, drive damage, or in worst cases, electrocution.
Disclaimer: The information in this article is provided for educational purposes only and is based on manufacturer documentation for pool equipment. All electrical work on pool equipment involves risk of serious injury or death if performed incorrectly. Always consult a licensed electrician and qualified pool professional before performing any electrical repairs or installations. Disconnect power at the breaker before inspecting or working on any pool equipment. ProTuff Products is not responsible for any injury, damage, or loss resulting from the application of information in this article.
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